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Canadian_CD9A's Mild Autocross Evo I RS

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  • Canadian_CD9A's Mild Autocross Evo I RS

    I think it's about time I throw my project up here for people to see.
    It's a 1993 Evo I RS, brought over from Japan in 2009 and almost instantly crashed. I bought it in its bent glory and made it road-worthy again. The mileage reads under 50,000 km (30,000 miles), but it's been beaten hard. The suspension doesn't do it many favors, and it's shot. Most of the modifications were already installed before it left Japan; Cusco 13-point roll cage included.

    Before starting, my philosophy with the car is to do constructive and tasteful modifications that can be reversed. It is still a street car, and I drive it regularly, but its main purpose is to be my race car. I also have a 'no stickers' policy.

    I bought every single part needed to (in my opinion), PROPERLY build an Evo suspension for autocross, without going overboard. When I go overboard, I have a tendency to not finish the project. As with any proper motorsports build, I will be setting cross-weights, using a set of ProForm vehicle scales that I just bought. Alignment will be done, as well, with the following data:

    Front camber: 2.5 to 3 degrees (depending on how far I can adjust it)
    Rear camber: 1.5 to 2 degrees
    Front toe: 0
    Rear toe: will toe-in 1 or 2 degrees for stability

    Here's our hero:

    And the parts!

    First is a set of K-Sport coilovers. Yes, K-Sport. They are Version-RR units with 7.5K front and 10K rear springs (I ordered 7k/9k, but I'll make it work). I went this route instead of a Koni/Ground Control setup because of cost, and the front camber plates of the K/GC setup violate the "no irreversible modifications' rule since another hole has to be drilled. As long as the damping isn't all over the map, I think they'll do fine.

    Next, I bought a pair of control arms and tie rod ends from xloki77x. When you lower a car, your control arm geometry goes stupid and creates bumpsteer, wherein suspension parts start moving in different directions. That's obviously bad for handling. By raising the pick-up point for the steering knuckle, you lower your control arm to where it was from stock. The tie rods need to be done, too.

    Bracing is important in the Evo's sloppy chassis. Ultra Racing front control arm brace, and Ultra Racing fender braces.

    I took a gamble on these - some Malaysian company is now making rear control arms for the CD/CE9A chassis. I bought them and they look decent.

    I couldn't add enough camber to the rear without messing up the toe, so I bought Megan Racing's camber and toe arm kit. I didn't want to cause suspension binding by downgrading the factory spherical bushing to Megan's rubber piece, so I picked up a reasonably priced set of spherical rods.

    The CD9A suffers from a big understeer problem due in part to its massive front sway bar and tiny rear. I bought Whiteline's 20mm rear sway bar to address this because it's a proven piece. I'll stay with the stock 22mm front bar instead of going to the Evo II/III bar.

    Bushings are perhaps the most important part of this build, since they are the reason for tearing everything apart. These are all important for one reason or another.

    Front control arm bushings from HardRace: again, I'm taking a gamble on a new product. They look promising, and my fronts creak and knock like crazy, so they're worth a try.

    I spent a LOT of time tracking these things down. I have a complete set of Ralliart rear differential bushings. I wanted rubber instead of polyurethane for whatever bushing I could get my hands on, and I was willing to spend stupid money to do it. So I did. The big heavy bar that holds the differential in place has some metal scraped off since the factory bushings are so weak.

    I also picked up a pair of Ralliart trailing arm bushings because I could.

    Ralliart motor mounts! Same story, I spent a lot of time and money getting these, but I wanted it done right. I couldn't find one of the roll stops, so I settled for a slightly softer Meek Automotive roll stop. Because of worn motor mounts, my driveshaft hits my exhaust. Super annoying.

    New shoes - Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs in 215/45R17. Believe it or not, these tires were free. I got them by entering a raffle at a local tire shop's BBQ, and won $1000 worth of tires from Goodyear (Dunlop is a Goodyear sub-company!). The Star Specs run wide, but since my rear arches are rolled and the rear springs stiff, they shouldn't rub.

    My turbo seals are shot, so instead of rebuilding, I decided to upgrade. Here's a new MHI Evo III 16G (with 3 slightly tweaked compressor fins...don't know how that happened. Oh well), Forced Performance cast manifold, Evo III O2 housing and new gaskets.

    I had to get a new cluster to donate a lens because mine's fogged and cracked to the point where it's almost unreadable.

    Sparco Ring steering wheel and a Falliart shift knob. I'm not content with the worn out stuff in my car, so these should do. I already have Cusco Hypergum bushings plus a C's Racing shifter, so it should feel good. Unless my worn motor mounts are causing a shifting issue, I will need new syncros.

    I'll probably remove the radio too, since it has 0.5 working speakers and picks up exactly 1 radio station. And it's in French.

    Not shown in the following: new driveshaft bearing, Mirage headlights, Evo III front subframe to increase track, Evo III steering rack because mine knocks like crazy, HardRace steering rack bushings. The timing belt has never been done, so all belts and bearings are sitting in that little white box to the left.

    Race much? These things are shot. They are actually corded in one section. Wheels are stupid-light Kosei K1-TS in 17x7 +35 variety.

    The first order of business was to remove the whole rear suspension assembly, since every bushing is shot and knocking like crazy. The differential bushings are the worst offenders, and the suspension has KYB Super Rally Specials, unknown stiff springs and a really jacked up stance.

    After one hour, the whole assembly came out. No seized bolts - the crossmember came out with a 3/8" ratchet! Super tidy for a 20 year old car.

    After the suspension removal, myself and my comrades realized that we would need a bearing press to remove and install the new bushings, so this is how we left it:

    Headlights were removed to be swapped for Mitsubishi Mirage headlights to meet provincial requirements. One had a bullet hole through it, anyway.

    To be continued...
    Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 05-08-2012, 06:08 AM.

  • #2
    A big undertaking you have there.

    Good work, and good luck. :good:


    • #3
      That's some cool bits and bobs. Love the sparco wheel, white bits are smart. This baby's gonna drive tighter than a nun's booty.


      • #4
        Woop woop love local cars! I really gotta see this thing some time.


        • #5
          Looks good! Only thing I would recommend is to get the OEM gaskets for the turbo side. Those after market one's don't last long. Paint on your car looks real clean:D


          • #6
            Nice Build fellow canadian! Looking forward to seeing it all done, your heading same path as me suspension handling wise but my car is pushing 150-200km unknown as odometer doesn't work. I have knocks every where! Good luck with the build.



            • #7
              Where did you get those rear lower control arms?


              • #8
                Originally posted by the chief View Post
                Where did you get those rear lower control arms?


                • #9
                  good read, looking forward to more progress


                  • #10
                    Looks nice.You should remove "mild" from the title of the post though.....thats gonna be a hardcore Autocross car!


                    • #11
                      I watched as my friend torched and pressed in new bushings today.

                      Old bushing - ban!

                      Hellfire, brimstone, etc.

                      Trailing arm got tweaked/ovalized in the accident. I'm not risking a Ralliart bushing in that - new arm on the way.

                      Upon differential reassembly, I found that the subframe wouldn't line up. Think this is the culprit? New subframe required...this is getting frustrating.


                      • #12
                        If you are going to the trouble of changing steering racks i'd highly recommend changing over to an evo 4 unit as they are less turns lock to lock than any early steering rack and bolt straight in :curl-lip:


                        • #13
                          muhahah yeaps, the arms are from Malaysia :)


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Evo1RS View Post
                            If you are going to the trouble of changing steering racks i'd highly recommend changing over to an evo 4 unit as they are less turns lock to lock than any early steering rack and bolt straight in :curl-lip:
                            Orly? How many less turns? This interests me


                            • #15
                              2.7 turns to about 2.3 if I rember correctly I will be doing this to my Evo as well considering I will be using it for drifting. :)