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Canadian_CD9A's Mild Autocross Evo I RS

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  • #16
    I considered the Evo IV RS rack (it's quicker than the GSR's), but since I already have a rack from a III ready to go, I decided against it. That would have started a slippery slope.... E4 rack, E4 knuckles, E4 control arms, 5-lug hubs & bearings, 5-lug wheels, E8 Brembos, and on, and on. I'm just trying to get this car finished, and so far it's looking like it will happen as long as I don't do anything stupid.
    Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 07-08-2012, 04:56 AM.

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    • #17
      I hear that about slippery slopes. It just keeps on going and going. Your making good progress so far, so I am sure you will get there quick

      Interesting on the steering rack. Gonna be on the look out for one of those since im already E4 everything else. I fell down that slope lol

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      • #18
        i did install LHD EVO 6 RS steering rack on my EVO 3, ammaizing ...I love it,,,

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        • #19
          I finally did something!
          A couple of weeks ago I received my replacement trailing arm, and had my friend press in a new bearing and the new Ralliart bushing. It went in with no problems. I also went to town on the crossmember to straighten it out, it's fine now too. Half-way through the parts installation I realized that I would need spacers to properly install my spherical bushings, and that took a few weeks itself.

          Nevertheless, it's finally back on the ground (good, because it needs to be able to move for the time I'm not in town). Some things need to be buttoned up (like torque on the lower control arms, which needs to be done while the car is on the ground).

          More beautiful pictures :)



          The $354 spacer bastards are visible in this picture :weep: I did the math and I spent just about $700 for the ability to adjust rear toe and camber independently. Damn.



          She's kinda slammed. Good clearance everywhere and I know the geometry isn't crap, so no harm done.







          I might get around to doing the front this year. Both rear brake calipers are seized so I'll need to source replacements, and I'm considering stainless brake lines too. There is still a lot of work to do.

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          • #20
            Looking forward to more updates!, Thanks for the Rear Lower Arm find ;)

            Alex

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            • #21
              Well, it's been a crappy winter and I haven't got anything done because of it. I did a few minutes worth of work today, and I'm logging all the additional stuff I've purchased for it.

              Things have gotten a little bit out of hand here. I decided that the Ksports wouldn't cut it, so I sourced these bad boys from Japan. Meet the Toda Fightex DA-G coilovers with 12k/12k springs. These things are serious business, far beyond any coilover I've ever seen. I now feel that the suspension I have here is on par with the best-tuned street Evos in the world.



              Since I'm a massive Ralliart fan boy, the missing Ralliart front roll stopper to complete the setup was driving me insane. I spent a lot of time digging, and not only found the roll stop (it's Evo 7-9, but reports show that 1-9 all interchange), but spent the rent on the little north/south bar jobbies, too.



              Goodridge DOT brake lines arrived to complement the Volvo rotors and Carbotech XP8s that each corner will receive.



              Next, after being unable to buy that sweet EvoX turbo kit, I created SUPERTURBO!!!11

              Superturbo is a Forced Performance 68HTA billet-wheel unit, with a 34mm flapper valve on the wastegate and a Holset wastegate actuator. I'm controlling boost with a Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, so this thing has no excuse for spikes and creeping.





              Also on the acquisitions list was the ARC intercooler kit and HKS-RS intake pipe. I bought new couplers, clamps and the missing pipe for the kit, this will do very nicely for replacing the stock crap. I'll be building a box around the air filter to make the only air source through the hood, topped with a scoop. BOV will be a recirculated SSQV since the asshole MAF is still present. Note: ARC wins.




              The ECU that came in my car is already socketed (bonus!), so it's just a matter of throwing in the chip I have and the 650cc injectors. She'll haul ass at 25 psi for awhile before she pops a head gasket and makes my life miserable.

              The interior is going through a major makeover. The cage has been removed and in its place goes a full E1 interior. This wasn't necessarily my first choice, but the local AutoX club recently changed regulations that put RHDs in a slower class, instead of being classed with home-built race cars. Putting the interior back in was a condition of fitting the new, slower class. An Evo IV shifter was sourced, along with a Tegiwa shifter extension and solid bearings since my shifter feels like garbage, even with the C's shifter. I've got a Bride seat rail for it too, since I'm sick of having to remove the seat to change the position.

              I'll post pictures as I get this stuff installed, but there are still a couple of surprises up my sleeve.

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              • #22
                Good progress, but I'd suggest dumping the SSQV. They're known to leak.

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                • #23
                  I do have a TurboXS BOV on standby if that's the case. The piping is flanged for the SSQV, and I happen to have one, so I'll see what happens.

                  So, full mod list (so far):


                  Powertrain:
                  -Forced Performance FP68HTA turbocharger
                  -Ported turbine housing & 34mm flapper valve
                  -Holset wastegate actuator
                  -Forced Performance Race Manifold
                  -TPP blanket for FP Race Manifold
                  -PTP blanket for TD05H turbine housing
                  -2.5" tubular oxygen sensor housing
                  -A'Pexi 2.5" downpipe
                  -High flow catalytic converter
                  -A'Pexi N1 catback exhaust
                  -ARC Intercooler & piping
                  -HKS-RS Intake Pipe
                  -A'Pexi Filter Kit
                  -Homebrew airbox
                  -HKS SSQV blow-off valve, recirculated
                  -Walbro 255lph fuel pump
                  -Socketed & chipped ECU
                  -FIC 650cc fuel injectors
                  -ACT 2600 Xtreme Clutch Kit
                  -Ralliart motor mounts (4)
                  -Ralliart north/south crossmember mounts (8)
                  -Factory front LSD


                  Suspension:
                  -17x7 +35 Kosei K1-TS wheels
                  -215/45R17 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tires
                  -Toda Racing Fightex Type DA-G coilovers (12k/12k springs)
                  -Evo III front subframe
                  -Loki Fabrication lower control arms with extended balljoint
                  -Loki Fabrication tie rods with spherical bearings
                  -Ralliart front control arm bushings
                  -D&D Performance rear lower control arms
                  -Whiteline 20mm rear sway bar
                  -Ralliart trailing arm bushings
                  -Megan Racing camber & toe arms with spherical bearings
                  -Ralliart differential mount bushings (4)
                  -Ralliart strut tower bars
                  -Ultra Racing door braces
                  -SuperPro steering rack bushings
                  -RTM Racing driveshaft hanger bushings


                  Brakes:
                  -Volvo S40/V40 rotors (F & R)
                  -Carbotech XP8 brake pads (F & R)
                  -Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
                  -Cusco brake stopper brace


                  Interior:
                  -Sparco Ring steering wheel
                  -Bride Ergo I racing seat
                  -Bride seat rail
                  -Blitz SBC i-D boost controller & Power Meter
                  -Autogage oil temp, oil pressure, water temp gauges
                  -Razo pedals
                  -C's Racing short shifter
                  -Tegiwa shifter extension
                  -Ralliart shift knob
                  -RTM Racing brass shifter bushings (transmission end)
                  -RTM Racing brass shifter bushings (shifter end)
                  -Cusco HyperGum shifter base bushings



                  I'm probably forgetting something here. There are a couple of top-secret mods that I'll unveil soon (not sure if I can make them work). In the future, I'd like to concentrate my efforts on the following, since I might wander on over to road racing:

                  -Transmission rebuild
                  -4-spider center differential
                  -Clutch-type front differential
                  -Rebuild rear differential
                  -Front splitter, rear GT wing, rear diffuser, possibly canards
                  -Front big brake kit, likely Cobra calipers with 2-piece rotors
                  Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 26-08-2013, 03:10 AM.

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                  • #24
                    If you want you can borrow my synapse dv Til I put my car back on the road too :)

                    Great build.

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                    • #25
                      Also was thinking maybe you could rent A certain ecu and a certain cable off me? Text me & we'll talk

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                      • #26
                        Hope this thread is still alive. can you pm me info on those rear trailing arms please. Also, any info on the steering rack would be nice and anything to help with understeer would be much appreciated.

                        I'm currently going to be doing the same procedure. I've just received my front whiteline droplinks. All my bushings have been changed excluding the front sway bar.

                        lastly... is there a easy way of changing the front sway bushings with the ngine in?z

                        Your build is impressive thus far...hope to see an update soon bro.

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                        • #27
                          The project is still going. I'm in Ukraine for a few weeks but I'm hoping to have it driving by mid July. I have a lot more stuff on the way, I'm getting very excited about finishing.
                          Anyway, here are the control arms: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DD-REAR-LOWE...2b80dc&vxp=mtr
                          Steering rack bushings: http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...8&strClass2=10

                          It's been so long since I've been under my car but the sway bar bushings should be easy to access. The rack bushings might require you to drop the subframe.

                          Understeer can be dealt with a few ways. On our cars, the best way to keep the front from plowing is to do the opposite at the rear; step up to a bigger rear sway bar (like the Whiteline BMR56X) or increase the rear spring rate. This is assuming that your alignment is bang-on (you can adjust to reduce understeer too. Check the alignment specs I'm using on the first page, keeping in mind that my car is intended for competition and sacrifices tire wear) and that you have good tires to keep grip at the front axle. I'm talking actual performance tires like Dunlop Star Spec, Bridgestone RE11/RE11a, BFGoodrich Rival, Hankook RS3, Falken Azenis RT615K, Kumho XS. All have their advantages and drawbacks, so do lots of reading before deciding on a set. Any more questions, I'm happy to help.
                          Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 09-06-2013, 05:34 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Much appreciated. I'm already ahead of you with the rear sway bar, I also upgraded to the whiteline droplinks. Hoping to buy some Fortune Auto 510 series coilovers with a 8k/10k swift spring set up by the end of the year.

                            If my dreaded roof is fixed and I get my 5 lug conversion done with need items I'll be back to auto x mid next year. I used to run the toyo R1R's they were good tires as well. I think there on the same page with the Khumo ecasta xs tires you mentioned.

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                            • #29
                              I have no qualms with the Fortune Auto coilovers, they are probably the best damper coming out of Taiwan these days. The spring rates you have planned will work, too. You might want to check out your options on the Japanese used market, I've seen a few sets of Ohlins dampers available, one with the rates you want. I'd trust Ohlins over Taiwanese, even used.

                              Toyo R1Rs are meant for light cars (under 2100lbs), they don't do so well above that weight range. Hankook RS3s need a lot of heat in them before they do their thing, but once they are heated up, they are fantastic. BFGoodrich's Rivals are a tire that you can throw on and will immediately perform, no matter the driving style or setup. Dunlop Z2s are great in colder weather and better in the rain than the others. They're good at everything, but not the best at anything. The Azenis RT615K is outgunned in every category, except maybe price. The wildcard however is the new Potenza RE11a - it's supposed to be better than the outgoing RE11, but the price dropped significantly. There hasn't been enough data to compare it to other tires, unfortunately. I ran Bridgestone's RE-01R Potenza and loved them. The Kumho XS is probably outgunned by the others as well, it's been around for awhile. Seeing as how you're in the Caymans, the RS3 might be the tire for you, but I'd also consider the BFGoodrich and Dunlop if the price is right (Bridgestone too if it reviews well).

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Canadian_CD9A View Post
                                I have no qualms with the Fortune Auto coilovers, they are probably the best damper coming out of Taiwan these days. The spring rates you have planned will work, too. You might want to check out your options on the Japanese used market, I've seen a few sets of Ohlins dampers available, one with the rates you want. I'd trust Ohlins over Taiwanese, even used.

                                Toyo R1Rs are meant for light cars (under 2100lbs), they don't do so well above that weight range. Hankook RS3s need a lot of heat in them before they do their thing, but once they are heated up, they are fantastic. BFGoodrich's Rivals are a tire that you can throw on and will immediately perform, no matter the driving style or setup. Dunlop Z2s are great in colder weather and better in the rain than the others. They're good at everything, but not the best at anything. The Azenis RT615K is outgunned in every category, except maybe price. The wildcard however is the new Potenza RE11a - it's supposed to be better than the outgoing RE11, but the price dropped significantly. There hasn't been enough data to compare it to other tires, unfortunately. I ran Bridgestone's RE-01R Potenza and loved them. The Kumho XS is probably outgunned by the others as well, it's been around for awhile. Seeing as how you're in the Caymans, the RS3 might be the tire for you, but I'd also consider the BFGoodrich and Dunlop if the price is right (Bridgestone too if it reviews well).
                                Ahhh. So thats why my car would sway so much in the sweeping S's. No matter what I did suspension wise or tire pressure wise the car felt almost the same. I used to come out of wide corners almost sideways sometimes, felt nice.

                                Well I guess I'll be trying one of the tires you recomended. Leaning towards the RS3's, RE11's or the BFGoodrich's.

                                Thanks for the input.

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