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Canadian_CD9A's Mild Autocross Evo I RS

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  • #46
    I probably missed it in the thread, but what have you done for brakes? I'll be cutting up my fenders to fit some 245's and I'm afraid that with a decently sticky tire, even the best pad will have a hard time dealing with the braking...

    Originally posted by Canadian_CD9A View Post
    Ah, I missed this. It will eventually get done, thanks for the encouragement!

    I bought the downpipe out of Japan, it's a slightly used but excellent condition A'Pexi N1, very high quality piece. I suspect that the flange was replaced once upon a time and clocked about 10-15 degrees, which made fitting the catback difficult, but it's all ok now.

    I haven't taken the Fram filter yet, I'll be doing my oil change in the spring. I've never had an issue with them on my daily driver Civic, I'll let you know when I remove it.

    I'm still making preparations for the coming spring - I'll be addressing aero in a visually offensive manner (I think you guys will love what I have lined up), I've been in contact with Stewart from FreakyParts to build me a nice Wilwood Superlite kit with 2-piece rotors to fit my control arms and I also wish there was a rear brake upgrade for our cars that retained a mechanical handbrake. Those calipers are wussy.

    I'm thinking about gutting my interior again after seeing this car

    Next winter will be my transmission - I'm using my Ralliart front LSD and Kaaz center LSD, in addition to full rebuild (possibly going to farm this one out). The plan is to stick with Evo 1 gear ratios because they're superior, but put double synchro on all of the gears since I bag the heck out of them, especially 1st. I might go with Evo III hubs/sliders/forks/etc if they're stronger. I think preload on the front differential will be high, preload on the center somewhat average-to-high, and I'll tear apart the rear and rebuild it with higher preload.

    I've also got an itch to do the motor - probably a budget 2.3L stroker with a 4G64 crankshaft, 156mm rods and a decent 9.0:1 to 10.0:1 compression piston. Head would probably stay mostly stock for ports, just adding GSC S2 or HKS 272 cams.

    Turbos are really getting to me. I like my setup now but after seeing what a Borg-Warner EFR7670 does to the 4G63, I'm sold. Some have made 500ft-lbs at 4000 RPM with these, which is phenomenal to say the least. I like responsive cars, but when you can make unreal numbers doing it, you have a winner.

    My next limiting factor is tires, but there's no way to address this since I will not cut up my quarters under any circumstances. I'll just have to stick to 215s, unfortunately.

    Ah, dreams..


    • #47
      I haven't done anything yet unfortunately, most brake kits won't fit my car. As mentioned, I'm having a 4-piston Superlite kit with 12.2" 2-piece rotors made with enough rotor offset to clear the lower control arm. Pads will be Carbotech XP8s again. This is about 1.4" more rotor, it's lighter and should stop a lot better than the factory setup.
      Rear is staying the way I have it installed now, essentially stock with braided lines and Carbotech XP8s.
      Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 24-07-2014, 05:51 AM.


      • #48
        It's almost spring, but it sure doesn't look like it with all the snow still on the ground. My car comes out of storage in a couple weeks, I hope it will run this month for the first time in over 2 years with a bit of work.

        Brakes arrived yesterday!!!] Wilwood Superlite 12.2" kit with 2-piece rotors. The rotors are the same weight as stock, but the calipers will save a ton of weight. I hope they clear my control arms.

        I got another Bride Brix 1 for the passenger to match the driver's seat, plus a pair of Schroth 3-point Rallye harnesses (DOT approved!)

        I also have an obnoxious wing and front splitter going on, and I'm considering putting some racing livery on it since that's basically all it does.

        The car is so close to done, I can almost feel it.
        Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 24-07-2014, 05:51 AM.


        • #49
          Pics of the front splitter? Is it one that you made, or bought? I'm looking for one!


          • #50
            It's an APR splitter for an E46 M3, basically just going to find a way to mount it to the stock bumper at a decent angle; as-is would slope up slightly.


            • #51
              I've been busy lately, I'll leave this one picture here first. Big update coming.

              Weight is with driver. Car without driver is 2554lbs, or 1160kg. I haven't removed anything obvious, but my dampers, brakes, wheels, exhaust and battery are lighter than stock.


              • #52
                Bring on the update. :)


                • #53
                  Loving those two pieces! What i'd give to have the extra change for Front 2Piece Rotors!


                  • #54
                    Ok, it's been a very, very long road since I last updated.

                    First, the dampers are in. I changed the springs to 10K front, 12K rear.

                    Next, the brake kit was a nightmare. I'm still battling a squishy pedal when the car is running, but nothing at all worked with the install. Among the problems was contact with the lower control arm; long story short, the rotors and calipers are spaced out 15mm.

                    Then come the tire issues. Learn from an idiot....215/45R17 is not friendly with Evo 1 lower control arms, tons and tons of hammering needs to be done. It might be possible to run side skirts again, but I'm sure they'll rub too. The lesson here: Evo II/III subframe increases the track. Evo II/III arms increase the wheelbase. My combination of an Evo III subframe and Evo I control arms is about as bad as it gets for tire fitment. I'm having a heck of a time finding a way to get the ball joint boot to sit down, there is no way to clamp it on. The sacrifices I've made to run these extended ball joints is not worth it, and I would definitely go another route if I was to do this again.

                    Next, I have a rear suspension issue wherein the left rear might not go to 0 toe. I haven't had it on an alignment rack yet, but I'm having a binding issue and it might not be possible for some reason. The right side is fine, no idea why.

                    I've been driving it a bit, impressions:

                    -steering input gets an immediate response, there is no slop ANYWHERE in this car
                    -transitions (left to right) are fantastic
                    -steering is quick with little input
                    -it's totally unstreetable with these spring rates, spherical joints and hard bushings.... not just bumps, the noise is terrible!
                    -Ralliart motor mounts aren't very pleasant for a daily driver, they amplify the clutch overrun noise that some Evos experience and introduce some vibration
                    -Throttle response and clutch response are drastically to the motor mounts and diff bushings
                    -The shifter remains a ganky piece of ambiguous crap - lots of play still, and it's still notchy despite all the bushings being changed

                    I still have to play with damping to see if it softens up, bleed the brakes better (and bed them), do an alignment, fix boost leaks and check the tune.

                    To sum up the car now, it's a race car dressed as a street car. Everything responds and communicates better than anything I've ever driven, but it comes at a huge cost. I thought it would be a lot better than it is for civility. Maybe it's just our terrible roads, but it's painful to hear and feel this car go over bumps. It's cartoon-fast in 1st and 2nd gears, but seems to fall off after that, I still have to do some diagnostics. Sometimes it lags for awhile when the throttle opens, sometimes it just goes like hell.

                    These pictures are of phase one, and admittedly yes, they're terrible. There is still a lot to come to address the visual aspects of this car, lots of creative stuff that the Evo crowd has likely never seen. I have no motor shots here, I'm still in the process of heat wrapping everything, and the car is generally filthy, so that will come eventually as well.


                    • #55
                      some of these may help push the front arms forward a touch and help the turn in also



                      • #56
                        Those appear to be the square type - those don't fit my control arms (see previous pages). This would work nicely if it was the correct bushing, I'm sure.


                        • #57
                          Try this:



                          • #58
                            I already bought http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts....sp?prod=KCA429 - the little bit extra should help. I'll update when they're in.


                            • #59
                              I didn't know before that the subframes were different between the I and the II/III. Thought the control arms made all the difference.


                              • #60
                                I measured the subframes, there was a ~25mm difference in the control arm mounting points.
                                Bushings arrived today and I'll be testing for boost leaks, but my ECU stuffed itself very nicely before I got the chance.