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Canadian_CD9A's Mild Autocross Evo I RS

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  • #61
    I'm still waiting for an ECU, so I can drive it to a shop to get the new Whiteline bushings installed.
    I fixed a major boost leak that was making the car slow, I can't wait to drive it again. I'm hoping to push it to 27 psi on 660cc injectors and 94 octane, I need to buy a data logger to monitor knock soon.

    I drove the car a couple of weeks ago with the front struts set to full soft (they were set somewhere in the middle before and nearly unbearable), and holy crap, what a difference. The car drove so nicely with the fronts at full soft, even with 10k springs. I'm waiting for Toda Racing Japan to send me the wrenches to soften the rears...I'm expecting another big difference. In coilovers, you definitely get what you pay for.

    In other news, the 'mild' autocross E1 is going wide...eventually. Just picked up a set of 17x8.5 Volk Racing TE37s at a bargain.





    I suppose the plan is to get Evo 8 hubs, redrill the front brake hats, get some 240Z-style flares and some 245/40R17 BFGoodrich Rivals, Potenza RE11As or Z2 Star Specs.

    I also have a neat rear brake trick I'm going to try out. Wait and see!!

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    • #62
      if you use evo 8 hubs you'll have to come up with a way to set the steering arm height to get rid of the bump steer.
      the evo 8's had the steering rack below the transfer case and the ackerman arms lower on the hub to match.

      loving the wheel choice, exact same spec as mine so the flare will be around 50mm :)

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      • #63
        I just want to press the 5 lug hub into the stock arms, keeping the E1 LCA and knuckle. That shouldn't change the geometry, or am I missing something obvious? I already have Loki's bump steer correction and extended lower ball joints though. These Volks are what I need if I go wide - I don't even know the offset (looks like 40mm) but my options are limited since my rotors are spaced out 15mm per side..usually 22mm is the magic offset on a 17x9, I need 37mm, so I can run small wheel spacers if I have to.

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        • #64
          Sorry i used the wrong terminology there, you will be just fine if you use factory knuckles. I thought you were meaning evo 8 knuckles.

          I had 17x9 +22 initially which was perfect with a 50mm flare however since changing to evo 5 alloy LCA's i've had to go to a +35 with 5mm spacer on the back.
          My TE-37's are 17x8.5 +30 and still needs the 5mm spacer on the back to comfortably clear the evo 2 swingarms

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          • #65
            Excellent, I'm glad I can get the trailing arm clearance I need and still be able to clear the front brakes and not have rubbing issues. My front offset is very similar to yours with the later LCAs, so I'm not worried.

            I'll go public with this though! Quick, cheap and easy rear brake upgrade for our cars. A good way to increase rear braking force is to move the caliper further away from the hub, which is a torque multiplier effect. The stock rotor is 260mm, so there is lots to be gained. One way to do it is to use a Lexus IS300 307mm rear rotor. It simply requires a spacer to space out the factory caliper from the factory bracket, a 10mm spacer to go between the rotor and hub, and redrill from 5x114.3 to 4x114.3 if you are still 4 lug. It maintains the stock hubs, the stock calipers, stock brake lines and stock e-brake cables.



            Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 15-08-2014, 05:01 AM.

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            • #66
              Awesome buddy glad to see the build continue!

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              • #67
                After seeing the "who had a crashed Evo?" posting on EvolutionPlus, it inspired me to look back to the start of my Evo project. It's almost 6 years to the day that I bought my bruised, battered and left-for-dead Evo 1 RS carcass, and it's difficult to see the nearly complete makeover of my car, despite all of the blood, sweat, tears, and money I've put into it. The car you see there, used to be this. It wouldn't go into 2nd or 3rd gear when I got it, wouldn't boost at all, all of the door and window mechanism broke over time, every body panel had scrapes, dents or paint missing, the rear suspension was bent from hitting a curb, a wheel cracked, bald tires, terrible interior, tasteless modifications (stickers mainly), and a complete lack of love.









                The car was still a royal pain in the ass up until the time to put it away for the winter. The locking nuts on the tie rods backed off so the tires were toed out immensely, the car was undriveable. Many suspension nuts and bolts are stripped from removing and reinstalling too much. The brakes have no feeling. Some bushings are still clocked wrong. The tune sucks. It needs a complete paint job again. It does have one thing going for it - it's fast. Accelerating, cornering, braking. But, all of the problems, and much, much more will be fixed next year.

                New parts going on:
                -Defi DIN gauge - getting rid of the ugly dash gauges
                -Redoing the interior plastics to not look like crap - door panels and dash will get a suede-type material
                -Sard fuel pressure regulator because my poor stocker can't keep up
                -Tomei 260 cams and upgraded valve springs
                -ARP head studs and a new head gasket
                -DSMLink because my tune blows
                -All my ugly aero plus a ridiculous front sheetmetal airdam and splitter

                And I'm still going wide one day.

                It's been a wild 6 years, Evo. I never thought we'd make it this far, but as long as the car is in one piece, it's not going anywhere. Here's to another 6 years!
                Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 05-12-2014, 06:01 AM.

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                • #68
                  You've come a long way man, continue the project and like you said imagine her in 6 years! Glad it made people think abit, I know just how many people have gone through rebuilds of sadly badly taken care of or crashed Evos everywhere and that was my point, so find some you have.

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                  • #69
                    It's almost spring, time to pick up with our hero where we left it - as a steaming pile. Yes, it's broken in the first picture.







                    What's cooking for 2015?
                    Well, I'm addressing every flaw the car has, and making every effort to improve along the way. Parts arrive daily!



                    I have a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 1 1/16" master cylinder to fix my brake pedal issue and all new suspension hardware to keep it from backing off (again).

                    The tune sucks and I can't do anything about it. So, DSMLink to the rescue. The Link, GM IAT and Omni MAP are on loan to me from my buddy Mitch from Brandon (evo1). No reason for him to do it, but I sure appreciate it! It's going on Speed Density with the big 4" filter. Brand new Bosch sensor for my LC1/XD16 wideband to go with it, and 1000cc injectors to stretch out the HTA68.



                    My gauges have never worked, so I'll be tossing them and installing a Defi DIN setup with oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges. Also incoming is a Defi Blue Racer boost gauge for the steering column, and a sheet of carbon fiber from China to mount the Blitz SBC i-D boost controller and completely ricer Blitz POWER METER i-D!



                    The cylinder head has always been a concern since I've been doing all of this on stock head bolts. So, I have a Fel-Pro composite head gasket, ARP head studs, revised lash adjusters, JUN cam gears, Manley valve springs and titanium retainers, and Tomei 260 cams. These are actually bigger than HKS 272s by a big margin, bigger than BC272s and roughly around Kelford 264 size - don't let the "260" fool you, it sure fooled me.



                    Greddy/Trust oil cooler, couldn't hurt. Not pictured, but a Sard fuel pressure regulator with braided lines is also going to make its way in.



                    I just completed my dream trifecta of differentials - a Ralliart front plated LSD, Ralliart Super Traction rear LSD (designed for EvoX RS but will work in any RS-model Evo), and I got my hands on my 3rd Adelia Magic mechanical coupling. These things don't grow on trees (there were maybe 25 made), I'm not selling it this time. I also picked up a Cusco MZ front LSD, but it might not be better than the Ralliart for my purposes so it will probably end up for sale. I desperately need to rebuild my transmission, so I'll be sourcing a transmission's worth of bearings and synchros for it. I have a worn out transmission from an Evo III stashed away, so it will get the E3 3rd and 4th gears (same as my 3rd and 4th but the E3 got double-synchro) to go with my 1st and 2nd, which have longer ratios than the E3, but still have a double-synchro 2nd gear. This is ideal for my car. No more plowy understeer or unpredictable behavior. This thing's gonna put power down.






                    And then there's this. I dreamed of one day finding something like this. Well, my prayers were answered last month. This is an OnGreenPerformance replica of the HKS divided T4 manifold, probably less than 20 made, I doubt I'll ever see another. I don't have to give up my TD05H spool time when I bolt on a twin-scroll HX35 - due to the nature of this cast equal runner manifold, it will probably make 400 ft-lbs before 4000 RPM and spool quicker than any Holset ever has on a 2.0L 4G63, but still kiss 500whp. I cannot wait to get this leg of the project in motion.

                    Plans include an 8-blade HX35 (the 7-blade will make more power, but only on E85), 38mm low-profile wastegate if it will fit, T3-to-T4 adapter and turbine housing blanket. I will need to get a new intake pipe fabricated, along with a new downpipe and possibly a new radiator & fan setup.



                    I also picked up a set of quarter panel flares from Truth Racing in Japan so that I won't be limited to my wussy 215/45R17 tires anymore. I will join the real tire crowd with 255/40R17s!



                    The car is also going full Evo III spec exterior-wise with the Evo III front bumper, lip, side skirts and rear bumper spats. My sheetmetal wing will make an appearance, with an APR front splitter. It's gonna look something like this:


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                    • #70
                      Time for an update. I've been fighting many battles with this car, and I always seem to lose.

                      Problems that have arisen this year:
                      -Needed the caster-adding lower control arm bushings re-pressed because they were installed backwards, fixed. Went looking for clunks, found a worn out balljoint.
                      -Waited 2 weeks to get a new Howe Racing ball joint, but the clunking continued. Turned out to be a year-old axle that stuffed itself.
                      -Burst a coupler (the one that would always come off). Awkward size - 2.25", 110* angle, 6" legs. Took awhile to find a replacement.
                      -Had an IAT bung welded on the intercooler pipe to the throttle body. Turns out it was welded in the one spot where it interfered with something on the car. It got rewelded and now houses the IAT sensor.
                      -Finally started tuning on Speed Density. Stopped to upload new settings, blew the clutch hose.
                      -Brought the Ralliart rear LSD to a shop to install. They thought it was the front diff, pulled the trans, and I lost another week. While the transmission was out, the ACT 2600 clutch showed that it is wearing very awkwardly and needs to be replaced. And to do what I want with the transmission will cost $2000 or more. Great.
                      -Switched subframes from Evo 3 back to Evo 1 to reduce track and hopefully get back some tire clearance to the inner fenderwell. Didn't work.
                      -The brakes brought back an old problem - the first half of the pedal does nothing. I thought I fixed this with a Mitsubishi GTO 1-1/16" master cylinder, but no.

                      The engine without the clunky MAF, and with an actual filter. Still gets a lot of blowby and oil in the pipes, but compression is good.



                      Dead coupler, limped it home from autocross like this:



                      I bought two pairs of 17x9 +37 Kosei K1s in 4x114.3 (buying anything 17x9 4x114.3 that isn't from Taiwan takes patience), also a set of 245/40R17 BFG Rivals to go wide.



                      As of now, I can't fit the 245/40R17 BFG Rivals, they interfere with the inner fenderwell and fenders. Even on stock-sized tires (215/45R17), I can't use the Evo III sideskirts because they interfere. The Rival is 24.7" overall and my 215/45R17 24.6". I don't know how it's possible to interfere like this on stock-sized tires with stock-style suspension, but I digress.



                      It did look good with them though.



                      I also found a brand new pair of second-hand Osamu Factory widebody fenders, which is great because I had no way to get them shipped here from a store.



                      So, I have a new plan. I'm going to lose the extended ball joints (not happy), but in order to gain wheelbase that is absolutely critical, I have to buy a pair of Evo III control arms. I already bought a brand new Evo III front sway bar, and my Evo 1 custom arms will be up for sale. The 245s and eventually 255s or 265s will make up for it, hopefully.

                      On the up-side, tuning with ECMLink v3 is a lot of fun! I knew my burned chip tune was terrible, with AFRs in the 9s on WOT. There is so much to learn about tuning a car, and an endless wealth of information online to learn.



                      Old Virtual Dyno on 22 psi - notice the power tanking at high RPM because it's so rich.



                      Then untuned at 15 psi:



                      I'm actually making close to the same peak power now with boost set at 15 psi than I was with 22 psi! Duty cycle is getting close to 80% so I'll be installing the set of FIC 1000cc injectors shortly to crank up the boost. This is just after the first round of tuning, there is a lot more power in it, especially as the boost goes up!



                      I'm also pretty happy with the way the gauges are done now - no more cobbled fire hazards, and it's pretty stealth.



                      The Ralliart rear LSD goes clunk-clunk like a proper LSD should. It's configured to be a 1.8-way diff with 80% of total lock. Throwing away streetability one piece at a time to have a faster car!



                      I gathered up everything to put a twin-scroll turbo on my car. It turned out that I bought the wrong turbo and then sourced 2 more HX35s (one 8-blade, one 7-blade), so I just needed to have a downpipe fabbed up. Then I realized that the wastegate seems like a dead end; the internal wastegate on the Holset probably won't work, and using a tube to get an external wastegate to work will lose the twin scroll effect. It might be possible to put a divided tube in there, but the Holset turbine housing is too big and clunky. So, this idea is probably getting scrapped unless a miracle is performed and I'll be going back to step 1.




                      Since I can't afford my precious EFR7163 with .92 IWG T4 housing, I'm going to try a Borg-Warner S200SX-56 turbo with a 1.00 divided T4 housing (aka S256 or Airwerks 7670). The housing is smaller, the turbo is better than an HX35, and it's cheap. If I can't divide wastegate pulses evenly with that, I'll go to a tubular T4 manifold with two wastegates.




                      Basically I need a significant amount of money and a lot of wrench time to keep improving, and both are in short supply.
                      Last edited by Canadian_CD9A; 13-10-2015, 05:49 AM.

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                      • #71
                        That turbo should definitely hit the spot, good choice!

                        Will be capable of 550whp on the right set up and spool before 4000 with ease.

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                        • #72
                          Its never ending and one thing leads on to the next!! But so worth it once its going.

                          Good work on the giving the tuning a go. I have seen a few videos and it looks interesting
                          But it's not somehting I'd be keen to give a go myself at this stage haha

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                          • #73
                            You should see what this guy brought to my house............................................. .................................... ehhhhh MR CANADIAN CD9A

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                            • #74
                              nice project, very nice project I gotta ask, where did you get those tailights from , I've been trying to get them.

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                              • #75
                                My taillights are stock, so I think you mean these?


                                All I know is that they were made by DEPO and probably haven't been made for awhile, therefore they are very tough to find. I think I saw a Japanese Evo tuner selling them, but this was awhile ago. I saw a used set for sale in Japan a few months ago, they went for a decent amount if I recall.

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